30 July 2008

School Pictures

Here are just a few of the pics I've taken here at the Colegio Miguel Ángel Asturias.

The 4th-6th graders are each working on their own projects in class, so I have been much too overwhelmed with helping each of them to take pictures! With the preschool through 3rd graders, I have them doing the same project as a class, so here are a few highlights.

The kids in Kinder (preschool) performed paper chromatography on black markers. Unfortunately, after asking them to explain what they had done, they said the colors came out after writing on magic paper. No! It's not magic, it's science!
The Prepa (kindergarden) kids studied the transport of water and air in plants.
The third graders mapped the different tastes on the tongue. The bitter got great facial reactions!
The 2nd graders crushing corn flakes to later pull out the iron with a magnet. Note the effective use of the elbow. I also saw a few boys using their foreheads to crush the cereal!
Lastly, these are the enthusiastic 4th graders hoping everyone votes for their class candidate Laura. Each grade has selected and promoted one candidate to be the presidente o presidenta of the school. The current 5th grade class won the past two years, so there's quite the reputation to upkeep. This photo was at the recent rally where each candidate presented their party, slogan, and platform. It was so great to see young students politically active!

27 July 2008

Lucky Transportation

Early on Sunday morning Chrisite and I set off for the market town of Momostenango with the hopes of finding shawls and socks and other good woolen clothing they are said to have. We found none, but we thoroughly enjoyed the pine-forest mountain scenery on the way and a typical breakfast once we arrived. We also enjoyed seeing the rickety carnival rides (this pic's for my grandma!) and the festively-decorated church.
Defeated, we headed for a place sure to cheer us up--las Fuentes Georginas, natural hot springs up in the mountains east of Xela. They were incredibly hot and steamy--just what we needed to relax and savor the day. The best part was the transportation to and from:

Normally you take a bus from Xela (75 cents) to the road that leads to the springs, and then you pay a pickup truck to take you the 8 km up (should be about $4.50). We missed the stop from the bus, so we had to walk back down the road a bit. Along the way, one guy offered to take us all the way for $7, which we flatly refused. We then asked some other truck (with two girls in the back) if they would mind taking us to where the desired road branches off. They were actually going to the hotsprings, too, so they took us all the way and refused to take our money!

Once we were sufficiently heated and relaxed, we headed back to the parking lot to find a pickup to take us back to the main road. Instead, we found that same family just getting into the car! After trying to explain profusely that we really weren't following them, we hopped in and got a ride all the way back to Xela!! The oldest daughter is in medical school there, and they were all there to visit her. What are the odds of them going to the same town as us?!? Slim to none, but pretty cool!

La Laguna Chicabal

At 8 a.m. on Saturday morning Christie and I set off for the beautiful lagoon of Chicabal. Alhough I knew it was in the crater of a volcano, I guess I thought we would get a ride to the top (I heard it was possible). I had sworn off climbing more volcanoes, but I guess I didn't learn my lesson because up we went (in flip flops, nonetheless!). At least we had banana bread for sustenance.

After 45 minutes of steep uphills, then 15 minutes of downhill, then 45 more minutes of uphill, we arrived at the top of Volcán Chicabal. It was already too cloudy to see the surrounding scenery, but luckily it was clear inside the crater, so we got great views of the gorgeous and crystal clear lake below. They prohibit swimming in it because it is sacred and is used for lots of Mayan rituals.

However, to get to said lake, we had to walk down 615 steps! Minutes after arrival, the fog rolled in and we spent half an hour reading and waiting. We eventually made it back up all those stairs, only to have to wait some more. The fog never did clear so we just hiked back down, but it was definitely worth it, sore knees and all!



When we got back, it was too late for lunch at our houses, and we were hungry...for ice cream. So we shamefully went to Wendy's for their fabulous frosties, and who did we get to meet but the one and only stripeless Garfield! That's right--it was a kid's event that we ridiculed, but then participated in. How bizarre is that costume?!?

That night we went to the fútbol game between two National Guatemalan Teams--Xela and San Marcos. We were lucky enough to sit right next to the marchnig band cheering section, so we got free sparklers and we got to hear all the cheers and songs right up close! Xela won 2-0, and the fans were so excited after each goal that they would run up and jump on the fence, screaming and setting off firecrackers!

We're so old!

Friday night as I sat down to read my book, I was joined by Kelly and Carlo, my housemates here in Xela. We chatted, read, and listened to some great bluegrass songs Carlo had on his ipod, and we decided we're all really old. We're 23, 24, and 25, but we each chose to stay at home and read rather than go out dancing on a Friday night. We also chose to read over watching T.V (turns out the t.v. in my room DOES work once you plug it in! I had never even tried, but Carlo got me curious and it turns out I even have cable! I watched and solved one round of Spanish Wheel of Fortune where they use Euros instead of dollars, but then I turned it off and unplugged it!), which made me really happy. Lastly, there are a bunch of jigsaw puzzles in my room (their son's who is now in Spain) that I have been wanting to start, but not sure how weird that would be. I mentioned it to Kelly, and she also would love to put one together! I think tonight's the night. Yeah, we're old.

Jesus for President


Friday night I decided not to go salsa dancing because I was incredibly cold and I was in the middle of an incredible book. Jesus for President: politics for ordinary radicals, written by Shane Claiborne, reveals how the current (and past and future) political systems and candidates are a far cry from the kingdom of God and from the political system desired by God. The volunteer from whom I got the book (many thanks to her mom!) explained that his first book, The Irrisistible Revolution, was what ultimately led her to become a Christian.

Anyway, the book starts with an in-depth look at Old Testament political systems, how and why they were commanded, and how and why they were repeatedly broken. He then moves to Jesus and explains with reference after reference how Jesus was a political radical and never taught anything other than enemy-love. Highly critical of the past and current war, Claiborne offers hope of how we could be, rather than just being critical and negative.

"By disarming Peter, Jesus disarmed all soldiers." For all our holy wars and bringing freedom to people by killing millions, we sure are a far way from where Jesus wants us to be. More than ever, I believe so strongly in pacifism and not returning violence with violence, that I cried repeatedly over how unchristianly my own country has acted for generations, all in the misused name of God.

The book also encourages making your own stuff and growing your own food when possible. So among other changes I hope to make, I have decided (after many guilty trips to McDonalds, Wendy's, and the ice cream truck) that I will make my own ice cream once I get back to the states instead of buying it. A small step, but an important one. That said, does anyone want to buy me an ice cream-making machine (birthday's coming up in October...)?

Actually, I'd rather everyone who reads this blog to read the book rather than buy me stuff!

23 July 2008

Pictures and Commentary

Check out the awesome trip summary in photos and commentary of my pana Christie at:

http://christieinca.blogspot.com/

22 July 2008

Bike Puzzler

This is the bike that I rented from my host family for the month. Yesterday morning I saw that it had metal poles going down from the center of the tires. I asked Quique what they were for and his response was shocking!

100 pionts to whomever figures it out. The answer in about a week.

Thanks to all who offered guesses and practiced a bit of creativity, but the correct answer is: to keep the dog from peeing on (and rusting through) the rims. Quique's bike is a rusty mess, but apparently dogs need to be up close and comfortable to leave their mark. Thus the poles, providing neverending frustration to (and protection from ) Tofi (the dog)!!!

Santiago surprise

Sunday morning Christie and I set off across the lake for the smaller town of Santiago where we were told they have awesome earrings. We found none worth our purchase, but I did find some awesome artwork, and I bought some for myself and for a few lucky friends!

Just when Christie and I thought nothing more in this country could surprise us, we were proven wrong. We passed a dead fish floating on the water and just as all the passengers shouted and pointed it out, the boat lurched to the side to circle around it. I really didn´t understand what we were doing until I saw the guy with the bucket catch it. Apparently it would make someone a great dinner, regardless of what disease probably killed it! Gotta love Guatemala.

19 July 2008

San Pedro de la Laguna

After classes and a teachers' meeting on Friday, I headed off with Christie and three other volunteers at the school for the hippie town of San Pedro de la Laguna which is on the southern side of the huge Lake Atitilán. We arrived at night to a lovely little town where we got a cheap hotel with a hammock on our porch with an incredible view of the lake. We had a fabulous dinner and I even found Rosa de Jamaica juice! I never knew to look for it in the states, but if you see it you should try it--it's great!

I awoke the next morning at 5:30 a.m. because I thought it would be fun to climb the Volcán San Pedro, which sits 3020 meters above sea level. Though Christie, Jenna, Steve, and Chris initially said they wanted to go, too, they decided sleep was the better option, so they slept in and went on a relaxing kayak ride while I set off with a nice French guy and two U.S.ans. I couldn't keep up with their ridiculously fast pace, so I convinced them to go on ahead and let me go my own pace. I ended up climbing much of the way with three Guatemalan Spanish teachers who were having an equally difficult time and who were left behind by their spritely students.

For three hours and fifteen minutes I sweat and panted more than I ever have before, to the extent that about halfway up my body started conserving water and I actually quit sweating entirely! The path winds through corn fields, then coffee and avocado plants, and finally through cloud forest in which many vines and bromeliads grow on the trees. Granted, I rarely looked anywhere other than at the muddy or rocky path, but every now and again I'd look up for a nice view. What was I thinking?! Climbing volcanoes is not fun. It is torture.


Once at the top, I found my group sitting on the large boulders that offer impressive views...of the clouds. On good days you can see the whole lake and the surrounding villages. On days like today, you can't see five meters past your face. That's okay, though, because I'll just buy a postcard of what I would have seen had it been clear.


After 20 minutes of rest in the cold rain, we started the descent back to town. For equally inexplicable reasons as during the ascent, my guide and group literally ran down much of the volcano. I kept up with them for the most part, but was pretty sure I would sprain an ankle while doing so. Also, though my lungs were pleased to have no more demanding work, my knees protested almost immediately, shouting their rally cry to stop with each painful step. We did stop briefly halfway down at a lookout point (still clouds), but getting up after sitting just made me realize how sore I really was!

Though the guide book said it takes about 6-7 hours round-trip, we arrived back in San Pedro after 5.25 hours, exhausted and hungry. I met up with the others and had a tasty lunch before I gleefully hobbled into the shower. After some reading/napping time in the hammock, I'm more than ready for my one-hour, $17 Swedish massage! ¡Qué lujo! And apparently it's salsa/merengue/cumbia night at a nearby discoteca so I'll see if I can't muster some energy for that.

Update: Kata, my masseuse was incredible! I don´t think she was quite as good as my one previous masseuse, but it was just what I needed to relax!

We dined at this great German place called Picasso that had random artwork about; a bed that, though confusing at first, came in especially handy for a sleeping baby to rest on; and a one-pound portion of spaetzel that was impossible to finish. Here Christie shows how full she really felt!
None of us had energy to go out dancing, so back to the hotel we went for a great night of sleep.

17 July 2008

Xela, sweet Xela


Christie and I have been here in Xela (a shortened name for Quetzaltenango), Guatemala for nearly 5 days now and it feels like it´s been a lot longer (in a good way). My host family consists of Jenny, Quique, and three more roomies Kelly, Carlo, and Julio. They are all wonderful and I thoroughly enjoy mealtimes. Quique is quite the jokester and really pushes my Spanish, always teaching me new words or phrases. In fact, just yesterday morning I learned a new word for one of my favorite breakfast dishes. I thought we were having panqueques, but they were actually panquiques! Get it?! He also made a great salsa that made broccoli enjoyable!

Good thing I walk an hour and a half every day or I´d certainly come home fatter. The walk to my school is 20 minutes one way and I walk home for lunch every day. One day I made the round trip three times because we went to a bake shop near my house for our volunteers´meeting. Speaking of, volunteering is going great! I know, I know, I tend to write more about my travels than about why I´m actually down here. So here goes.

The small, private school where I work is called La Academia de Miguél Ángel Asturias. It follows the principles of popular education, working to make education accessible especially to poor and indigenous students while eliminating racism and sexism. No small goal here, but they´ve been working at it for 14 years with the elementary school. The middle and high school have only been around for about 3 years and they haven´t quite mastered the incorporation of their monthly themes yet, but they´re learning. The main problem is that, because they charge a very low monthly fee and offer scholarships, they can´t afford to hire highly qualified teachers for the older grades. All the elementary teachers I´ve observed and worked with are wonderful, but the science/math/accounting teacher I observed is teaching a fair amount of wrong information and mathematically incorrect processes. It´s sad, really, because the students seem to want to do well and I can only imagine the misconceptions they will leave with.

This whole week has entailed observations and giving classes on the scientific method. Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, I work with the 4th, 5th, and 6th graders first on the science fair. This week we learned about the scientific method and what a science fair entails. Next week they will choose and develop their projects. The next 3 weeks they will execute their experiments and create their presentations. I won´t actually be here for the fair, but they should be well-prepared before I leave.

As far as the older and younger kids go, I don´t know yet what I´ll be doing. We have a teachers´meeting tomorrow after which I hope I´ll know how to integrate the fair into the current classes. The teachers are extremely accomodating for the most part (a shoutout to Ingrid, who has given me a set schedule right from the get-go!), but I always feel badly interrupting classes.

Many things about these students have amazed me. Even though most of them are from poor/troubled backgrounds, they are very advanced, at least compared to my high schoolers. I don´t know the performance levels of U.S. grade-schoolers, but as sad as it is, the 4th graders can use rulers better than my seniors. Their cursive handwriting is impressively neat, and they are really respectful. I know that some of the respect and interest in learning/impressing the teacher is due to their age. Some of the high schoolers here are punks, some pass notes, and they all talk at some point during class, but the level of respect is still noticably higher than in my students.

Other things of note: the small basketball/fútbol court is chaotic and seemingly dangerous during all break periods. I don´t know how more kids don´t get injured while 4-6 games of different sports go on at the same time in different directions with different aged and sized kids!

The resources are significantly less than at my school, making me highly appreciative of what we do have--easy access to a photocopier, graduated cylinders, balances, microscopes, mirrors and lots of other fun physics stuff, a few chemicals, a few textbooks, and more money in our science budget than an average teacher makes here each year! Granted, it´s much easier and cheaper to get fresh dissection specimens here, so maybe things even out after all. :-)

I have met 3 students named Karla.

All the students want to practice their English with us.

Each class gives a greeting in Spanish, English, and Quiché.

The young kids have class from 8-12:45 and the older kids from 1-6, making my day either very long or incomplete (if I go home for lunch).

They are hoping to build a 3rd story, but the currently unfinished roof (future floor) provides wonderful views of the city and the nearby volcano, as well as a sunny retreat for lesson planning!

Aside from my time at the school, I have managed to explore the downtown, do my laundry (finally!), attend a surprisingly hard yoga class, rent a bike for a month, and cook a pasta dinner in the dark. Every Wednesday some of the volunteers at the school have a pasta night but right as we started the water boiling, the power went out. It has happened 3 days so far, sometimes for half an hour, sometimes for 2 hours or more. So we made pesto without the help of a blender, chopping mounds of garlic and basil by hand by the light of 3 candles, and crushing toasted almonds with a rock we found outside (cleaned, of course). The only incident was when we realized we had put the garlic bread in the oven on a plastic pan (who could tell in the dark?), melting completely into pretty strands of plastic. If it didn´t smell so bad and if it didn´t ruin the oven so badly, I´d suggest it as a lovely form of modern art. The meal tasted wonderful, nonetheless, and as soon as we were done eating, the power came back on--just in time for cleanup!

It is much colder here than I thought, although we have been blessed with 3 straight days of no rain, meaning I feel warmer overall. Luckily, I bought an umbrella the first day here, minutes before it started pouring. For 2 dollars, I´m not sure it will last all month (XT´s broke already), but I´m hopeful.

The drivers here are surprisingly slow. Another interesting note is that I have been waved across the street numerous times, either because the drivers are exceptionally courteous or because they want to check me out as I walk past. Either way, it´s interesting.

I hope to add more pictures as I take them, as well as an extensive look into the culture of the chicken bus, but now I´m off to dinner! Chao.

15 July 2008

Guate to Xela

Sunday morning we went downtown to find a decent place for breakfast, and we ended up eating from street vendors in the Parque Central while we watched a Catholic procession pass by. It was reminiscent of Holy week in Colombia.

Sadly, XT and I said adios to the stuff-laden Eli who had to catch a plane back to the states while we rode on a very boring bus to Xela. No movie, no food vendors, no more reading material, no Eli to play the dot game. Boring. Getting on the bus, however, was anything but. 25 minutes before the bus was to leave, Christie remembered that she needed to get her suitcase of toothpaste from a different bus company that was storing it for her. She flew there and back, arriving no more than 20 seconds after the bus pulled away. The jerk at the front desk not only didn´t have the bus wait ONE minute after she called him, but he didn´t tell me either that she told him to tell me she was close. So into the taxi we piled and chased down that bus about 2 miles away! Of all the things in this country that happen on Latino time, buses are not one of them!

For a more elaborate and emotion-filled telling of this tale, check out Christie´s blog at christieinca.blogspot.com

We arrived just fine, met my host family again, and then went out for Indian food with the two volunteer directors (and friends of Christie), Steve and Jenna. It was good, but probably the most expensive food I´ll buy here. Food and services are cheap (I found a 1-hour massage for $14 and will go soon!), but gas is ridiculously expensive. Here and in all of central america gas is about $4.5 per gallon! While that is what we pay in the states, these are developing countries, so imagine how hard it is hitting them! And though I´m sympathetic, it´s annoying that taxi drivers just use it as another excuse to rip you off. Arrrg.

Food Fair!

After a late night chatting and drinking smoothies, Eli, XT, and I awoke and said our goodbyes to Ana´s wonderful family. We bused to the western town of Juayúa where every weekend they have an impressive food fair. There was gourmet food of all kinds--seafood, meats, soups, vegtarian dishes, cakes, fruit kabobs, juices, and smoothies--and it was all super cheap! After we thoroughly weighed our options, we each set down to a delicious meal as we watched fruit and clothing vendors pass by and listened to dueling music stages--a horrible saxophone and a delightful salsa singer.

Eli and I then took a tour with our 13-year old guide Omar to the nearby waterfalls. They´re not the typical waterfall that flows from a river, but instead they break through a wall of rock in many different places. There were at least 4 different places where they pool at the bottom and you can go swimming. We didn´t, for a lack of time and energy, but they were really neat. Even cooler than the temperature of the water were the tunnels that were at the bottom of some of them. They were used by the guerrillas during the war, and it would have been so fun to go in them!


Instead, we took a tipsy tuk-tuk ride back to town (at one point having to get out and push it up the muddy hill) and got back on a bus and headed for the border. From there we crossed back into Guatemala and stayed the night in a pretty decent hotel in Guatemala City. The neighborhood was frightfully disgusting, but the hotel was convenient and nice enough.

Shameful U.S. involvement in assassinations

After many much-needed hours of rest, we decided to forgo any plans involving strenuous physical exercise and just bus up to the capital, San Salvador. We first went to the artesanía market where we bought lots of good stuff, even though we really had no where to put it.




Then we went to the Universidad de CentroAmerica (la UCA) where they have a museum about Monseñor Oscar Romero. He was an archbishop in El Salvador who fought against the oligarchy for human rights and land reform. After burying many of his fellow priests, he was assassinated while giving mass in 1980. Although there is now much awareness of his and 75,000 others´unjust murders, no one has been charged with anything. Impunity reigns and all the evidence seems to not matter, even internationally. It´s shameful how much influence the U.S. had and still has in the dirty politics of El Salvador´s past, as well as how little any U.S.ans know of said history. I highly recommend the movie Romero, though it only scratches the surface of how bad the situation was for so long.

In a more optimistic note, we are all highly hopeful that theFMLN´s candidate Mauricio Funes will win the 2009 elections and begin to reform a broken country! Hasta la victoria siempre!

Two for One

Thursday morning we set off to climb Volcán Santa Ana which is in a national park with two other volcanoes--Izalco and Cerro Verde. The tourist center is on top of Cerro Verde, so we actually had to first hike down 1900-some meters before we started up again! It turns out Santa Ana is too active, so we got to scale Izalco--a barren, rocky cone of 2100-some meters. Going up was actually easier than down, though certainly not as fast.






Izalco was really neat because you could see all around (no greenery in the way), and there were occasional holes where smoke was spewing out. The view at the top was incredible, and we barely had enough time to eat a snack and walk around the crater before we had to descend yet again.






The worst part, though, was the ascent up Cerro Verde because it is all stairs. Man, were our glutes and calves sore the next day!










Gluttons for punishment, after Amelia cooked us a wonderful dinner, we went out salsa dancing! Well, it was more reggaeton with a few latin dances thrown in at the end, but we had lots of fun anyway. The best (=worst) part was that they alternated an hour of latin music with an hour of this woman singing songs from the 70s and 80s! She had a good voice, but wow were the songs grating! I´m not gonna lie though--we all sang along when we knew them!



Surfeando!

Wednesday we left in the morning for one of the many great beaches. We ended up in Sunzal, a lovely and clean black-sand beach on the Pacific. Lucky for us, Amelia (Ana´s good Ecuadorian friend) was a seasoned surfer, so she gave us the courage and the skills to try surfing! I must say, I´m not a good surfer. I really enjoyed just floating back in on the waves, rather than struggling time and time again to balance myself up to a standing position, inevitably falling over and being beaten by the waves and the board. Christie eventally got it, and she kept at much longer than I or even Elizabeth did. I did get up to my knees, but eventually called it quits and played with Jamila on the beach. I got quite a few lovely bruises, but none compare to Christie´s!

After such exertion, we enjoyed a delicious meal and even got serrenaded by a guitarist/singing group as we ate.



The amazing part of the day is that I didn´t burn at all--to the extent that I don´t think I got any color at all!


Suchitoto and Gluttony


Tuesday we set off for the quaint little village of Suchitoto where we first bought some souvenirs, ate ice cream, and then set off for the lake of Suchitlán. We took a lovely lancha ride across the lake to various islas that each had a story. One isla (that we didn´t actually visit) had a hermit living on it in a cave for 14 years. Another is the island of the enamorados, who all go there on Valentine´s day.





The best island was the isla de los pájaros (bird island), because hundrds of birds breed there. For some reason, they don´t go to any other island, making it quite a loud, smelly, sight-seeing spectacle. After a brief scare that we might have to paddle back, we set off and arrived ashore just fine. Not really much drama at all, in fact!

As we walked back to town, Ana and Haydee pointed out a whole bunch of dormilonas, or sensible plants. If you´ve never played with them before, you´re really missing out. The second you touch one of the leaves, al the leaves snap shut in this slow ripple effect that is great! It has the addictive power of bubble-wrap, so we didn´t leave until all the leaves were closed!


At night we went to this amazing buffet where they served all the traditional Salvadoran foods. We ate tamales, enchiladas, pupusas, and lots of other delicious and not-so-delicious foods that I don´t know the names of. We also drank atoles, chocolate, horchata, and some texturally-weird juice with plenty of seeds and chunks. Wow, were we ill, but it was definitely worth it!