The two good things I have to say about the city are its many public art displays and sculptures, and the metro system which is pretty sweet! The famous Colombian artist Botero donated 20-30 sculptures to the city and they’re all over, easily noticeable because his style is to make everything exaggeratedly chubby—people, horses, birds, you name it. There is one place where there was a Bird of Peace that was ironically bombed by guerrillas. In a symbolic act they erected another one right next to it, so that was pretty moving to see. And the metro was convenient and fast, but twice as expensive as the 2 year old guide book said. Come to think of it, everything in
So once I made it into my hostal, I chatted with some of the viajeros and then set out for dinner and the procession that was bound to occur. First, just like everyone else in Medelliín, two guys in the restaurant werent just watching me eat, but the one was staring and signaling with his eyes and clearly didn't understand my angry/avoidance looks. People were far more aggressive and overt in Medellín than in other cities, wich was another unpleasantry. And t
hen later, sure enough, there was a procession at the main cathedral. I went to the mass, but it was absolutely packed. I thought I could hold out for the standard hour even in my horrid sandals, but the priest elaborated on each of the 7 last sayings of Christ, and it lasted 2 solid hours even without communion! It was good, and I'm glad I went for the re-focus on the whole season, but I was distracted much of the time by my aching feet and by all the other distracted, dying-to-leave people. The procession began and included the standard figures raised on shoulders, but they were mainly of the women who were mourning. And then there was Jesus in a coffin at the end that struck me as kinda weird. Symbolic? Artsy? I dunno, but I wasn't feelin' it. And there was absolutely 0% chance of anything being open afterward, so to my hostal I went after wasting a day in the city and nearly 2 in travel time!

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